Fabric often determines the intuitive feel of a tie. The expert can tell the good from the bad by a glance.
For silk printed fabrics, the quality is mainly looked at two points: silk scarves toronto manufacturers
Texture and print level.
Origin of silk
A good tie must be made of pure silk. Once you touch it, you will immediately fall in love with the smooth and refreshing feeling. Its color also looks more natural and soft, which is impossible to compare with other synthetic fabrics such as polyester.
In addition, the origin of silk is also very important, Italy or the UK production is 15 to 20 times more expensive than the domestic, mainly poor in the silk dyeing and finishing, spinning, weaving these processes.
The Rolls-Royce of ties, Stefano Ricci, for example, has been making silk using a round-trip loom from Italy dating back to the 17th century and can weave only two ties an hour.
This ancient process and the extreme pursuit of quality cannot be matched by mass industrial production.
The print effect is also a key to the quality of the tie. Bad prints often look wrong in color, very gaudy, and have blurred edges.silk scarves toronto manufacturers
Silk printing:silk scarves toronto manufacturers
The traditional British manual printing and dyeing is a process in which the background color is dyed on silk fabrics before the pattern is printed. Because it is manual operation, each technician to make the effect will be different.
Italy mainly uses direct printing, which is printed directly on white fabric.
For example, it is also printed a piece of dark blue red polka dot fabric. In British printing, fabrics are dyed dark blue as a base color and then red dots are printed on.
In the Italian method, dark blue is also printed on the white cloth as a pattern, leaving white space where the dots are designed, and then red dots are printed in the white space.
In other words, the main difference between English and Italian style is the presence or absence of color overlay. Hermes ties, for example, look significantly more saturated than Drakes, and the patterned edges are sharper.
Hermes, left, Drakes, right
But many people who like handmade textures find English prints more traditional, classical and artistic.
In short, if you want to know whether the fabric is senior, first look at the production place; As for the printing effect how to distinguish, only good things to see more slowly understand.
Besides feeling cool and looking wavy, the most important thing about a good tie is that it fits well around the neck.
Therefore, the fine tie is very dainty in cutting and sewing.
45 degree diagonal cutting:
45 degree diagonal cutting refers to a special technique of cutting along the diagonal direction of the fabric.
This way can maximally explore the elasticity and flexibility of the fabric, so as to adapt to the deformation caused by the force on each other in different parts of the tie when knotting, so that the tie keeps vertical, no twisting and no folding.
It also smooths the tie completely when removed, instead of curling it up like a squid.
In order to determine if a tie is cut on the diagonal, you can perform a stretch test, which has two measures:
Pull in the direction of the tie, it should be extendable in this direction;
Pull it 45 degrees and it should not extend at all.
Jump pin:
If you open the fold on the back of your tie and find a coil, don’t mistake it for poor quality and pull the thread off in a fit of anger. You’ll probably cry when you learn what it does.
This man-made, hand-stitched coil is essential to keeping the tie in shape, so that no matter what you’ve done to it, a simple pull on the loop will restore it to its original shape.
Ordinary ties that have not been treated may be shapeless after 1 year.
The difficulty of this “jumping needle” technique is also reflected in that it must fold the opposite sides of the tie and run through the lining, but it can not sew the front side, which is difficult to reach the test technician’s hand.
Reinforcement hitch:
On the back of the tie, there is a cross knot that “staplers” the folded sides of the tie together.
Its main function is to reinforce the jump pin and ensure the stability of the tie.
If you wear your tie for a while and start to show signs of resistance, a bubbling feeling, it is likely because there is no hitch.
The shape of your tie has a direct impact on how handsome you look. If you want to keep your tie in good spirits, pay attention to these little details.
After solving the above two basic problems, you can finally enter the advanced mode, there are two styles of tie you need to choose:
Hard man, let the wind and rain play, tie or firm upright in the chest.
Elegant man, tie can be blown in the wind, just like a girl’s hair is slightly blown.
In short, you want waves? Or do you want to be stable?
These two styles are reflected in the following crafts:
Multi-stack style:
Good ties are folded with a whole piece of cloth, rather than a number of pieces stitched together, so the biggest difference between the two is that folded ties basically can not see the traces of stitches.
The so-called fold is to fold the fabric into several layers like origami, for example, a 3-fold tie means that the fabric has been folded three times.
Now the main folded ties on the market are 3-fold, 5-fold, 6-fold, 7-fold.
3-fold is the most classic style, which is also the most common in the products of garment brands. But now people who really play men’s wear are more like the 7-fold, of which Kiton this style is the most famous.
7-fold method is very expensive fabric, a tie to spend about one meter of silk. These ties are usually expensive, and for those who prefer them, they are “Italian origami luxury for the neck”.
It meets the strictest definition of luxury: expensive, unnecessary and toned.
Lining:
The lining is the padding inside the tie. It gives the tie more shape and adds weight to the tie to make it more draping.
High-grade ties are usually lined with wool, which is soft and elastic, and can smooth out the wrinkles faster after untying the tie.
Cheap ties are often lined with synthetic polyester, which is too stiff to look natural and silly.
Hang up or not
Hanging means that on the back of the tie plus a layer of cloth, used to cover the tie table cloth due to folding exposed back.
There is a hanging cloth and tie table cloth using the same fabric, usually used for 7-fold ties, extremely elegant and stable.
A decorative lining is a different fabric from a tie watch, usually in a single color, but it can also be a more sassy one, like a vintage girl print or your girlfriend’s head stickers.
It is important to note that even if the tie label says 100% silk, this just means that the tie watch cloth is silk.
The common necktie lining on the market is made of polyester. Only the highest quality necktie manufacturing companies will use silk, in line with the hard grade requirements of “silk is everywhere visible to the naked eye”.
Exquisite lineless fabric styles are hand-rolled sewn, known as seam edge. Its edges are cylindrical, the stitches are not so regular, and it takes time and tests the skill of the technician.
In contrast, the edge of the machine is too flat, dull, no vitality, not in the eyes of the veteran men’s wear lovers.
fluffiness
Simply put, the fluffiness of a tie depends on the weight of the tie.
Neckties with lining are usually lined through both ends, and ties without lining are usually unlined, or only “half-lined”, which is not visible where there is no lining.
In the case of excluding special fabrics, the tie hanging inside is heavier, so the feeling of draping is better than that without hanging inside. At any time, the tie hanging inside will be honest and stay in the chest, appearing very stable.
If you want to keep your tie flowing and sleek, look for semi-lined or unlined ties with no lining.
But the unlined tie has the disadvantage of not quite wide enough, although enough floating, but for people who are not very good at tie, play a good tie needs to spend several times more time, and after untying the tie more folds, need timely ironing.
So whether you want to be elegant or tough, it’s all up to the man’s personal preference, as long as you can tell why he chose the tie, then it’s all for you.
With this key information, a man can tell for himself whether a tie is of good quality.
I hope that on the basis of having a better aesthetic taste, you can take costume culture as a hobby and grasp these knowledge points as fun.
It is more tasteful to know the craftsmanship behind beauty than to appreciate it.
It’s not easy to be a delicate man. Let’s work together.
Post time: Jan-03-2023